Hamburg 2023
By Arnd
Public transport — thumbs up!
What I really loved about Hamburg was the public transport. We had bought the Hamburg Card, which promises lots of discounts for various attractions. That was a waste of money for us, at least. But the included group transit ticket was absolutely worth every cent. The connections in the city center ran at incredibly high frequency — we didn't even have to check when the next train or bus was coming. It was never more than 6-7 minutes. That makes using it really pleasant, because it becomes second nature and public transport isn't just an option anymore.
We stayed at Rödingsmarkt. From there it was one stop to Rathausplatz and another to Jungfernstieg on the U3. Other destinations were reachable by bus 3. Everything less than 2 minutes from our accommodation. Sure, these are the super central locations in Hamburg. But even at less frequented spots, we always reached our destination with good times and minimal transfers. That's how public transport should be. What I don't know is how it looks for commuters here. We weren't traveling during rush hour.
Photography — also thumbs up!
What I find particularly impressive about Hamburg is that — at least as long as there are contrasts through light — the interplay of light and shadow created by the omnipresent water generates fascination again and again. The city is surprisingly spacious, which also drove our step count to extremes. But that's precisely what creates room for these photographically interesting geometries that couldn't exist in denser urban settings.
The same naturally applies to the reflections in the water. There's space for it. And so you'll find virtually endless motifs. At least as long as there's light. On truly overcast days, achieving the desired contrast is naturally difficult.
Besides that, I love graffiti. These often wonderful little works of art certainly don't warm everyone's heart, but they do mine. Often it's just about the colors that liven up the big-city monotony. Sometimes they're genuine little works of art.
Bootshaus - Grill und Bar
Gastronomically, Hamburg is very interesting and relatively good value. Not cheap, mind you. But the quality offered was always worth the money wherever we went. On our first evening in Hamburg, we went to "Bootshaus - Grill und Bar". Beautiful interior design meets waterfront views. Complemented by a truly upscale steak kitchen. Great place. Great food and attentive service!
Philipps Restaurant — from the basement to heaven
Another time we went to "Philipps Restaurant", roughly located between the trade fair and St. Pauli. In a somewhat "cooler" neighborhood, with an alternative vibe. Besides a limited à la carte selection, they offer a fantastic set menu where you can choose the number of courses. I thought it was really excellent. You sit comfortably in the basement and are well taken care of by the friendly staff here too.
Where to find breakfast?
In the beginning, I spent my days mainly between the Outer Alster and Rathausmarkt. Breakfast at Café Paris was fantastic. Absolutely recommended. But beware: Hamburg has very strict holiday regulations, or simply not many eager restaurateurs and retailers. The supermarkets we visited closed at 8 PM. And on Sundays it was completely dead. Only the small EDEKA at the main train station was open. With long queues in front of and inside the shop. Finding a café for breakfast in the city center on Sunday is not easy. Without a reservation, your chances are slim. I also frequently visited the Arkadencafé, a charming old café like you'd imagine from 20-30 years ago. But with a dreamily good butter cake. And probably the most bizarre path to the restroom I've ever walked.
HafenCity Hamburg
I also spent a lot of time in the HafenCity. Especially the first days, when we could enjoy lots of sunshine, were a dream for photo opportunities!
Tierpark Hagenbeck
We also visited Tierpark Hagenbeck. The only relevant privately owned zoo in Germany. Really beautiful, super friendly staff! Totally worth it!
A truly wonderful city. I lived in Hanover for years and occasionally visited Hamburg. But always just for a few hours. Through our stay here over several days, I really came to appreciate this wonderful city. And I can only recommend to everyone — with or without kids — to take a vacation in your own country and definitely dedicate a few days to this "pearl"!