A Walk at Tegernsee
By Arnd
A Flatlander Gone Astray
So you're in Munich for a day. Really only because you're waiting for BMW to inspect your car on Monday so the planned road trip can begin.
But it's Sunday. The sun is shining. A beautiful day — the harsh winter sun stages the colorful buildings of Munich's city center even more spectacularly in their beauty.
While lying in my hotel bed programming for the Predator website, I consider making a little trip to the countryside. Xenia, the best wife of all, had recommended Tegernsee to me. So I google "easy hikes" in the area and find what I'm looking for. The fact that the website is called "Bergtour online" (Mountain Tour Online) doesn't dampen my enthusiasm, and off I go toward the Aueralm.
The Authorities Are Already There
The starting point of the hike is the Söllbachtalstraße parking lot. Coming from Munich, you drive through the Tegernsee region past beautiful little clusters of very well-maintained and even magnificent wooden houses. Pure idyll in Munich's front garden, so to speak. You arrive at this parking lot in the middle of — from an urban perspective — nowhere, and the first person you meet is a friendly lady from the parking enforcement office.
No joke — there's a ticket machine and they're writing things down. Lacking coins, I install a parking app. The friendly enforcement lady says it's a good one. And works in about 80% of cases...
The description on the website sounds straightforward, the trail signage is supposedly very good. And "a bit later" you turn right off the forest road by the idyllic stream. They could have described that a bit more precisely — I've taken a photo of the spot for you.
"Easy and Stroller-Friendly"
According to Bergtour online: "The trail is easy in any season and without snow even 'stroller-friendly' (normal route, but steep!)." And: "Fitness level: low to moderate requirements; easy to manage with good fitness."
As I later read, "Fritz," the author of this tour, advises against taking the ridge path in winter. But there I am, trudging upward in my lightweight gear of summer hiking boots, thin jacket, camera in my left hand and a small bottle of water in my right.
Pathfinder?
At some point, the path becomes difficult to find through the snow, and the supposedly wide forest road turns into a narrow trail that winds directly through the forest parallel to the slope going up. Not at all wild, but also not a relaxed stroll on a wide forest road. And certainly not stroller-friendly...
By the time I reach the ridge path, I've already sunk knee-deep in the snow a few times. And I'd hoped it would stop. But no such luck — now it really got going.
Tegernsee Dream View
Now the forest briefly opens up and the view of Tegernsee reveals itself. Breathtakingly beautiful!
The following hour or so becomes torturous. I try to step in other people's footprints to avoid sinking energy-drainingly into the snow with every step. Not just my feet are wet by now. Pretty much everything. And the only thing that's already arrived in the valley is my hiking enthusiasm.
Suddenly the forest clears a little and further back I spot a barrier gate.
You Can't Be Serious!
A sign warns about the barrier gate?! As if there were still an option to turn back here. Or you could miss the barrier. But not the sign. But German bureaucracy spares no effort to surprise us with its care even in the most remote locations.
Eventually I reach a junction that opens toward the Aueralm. The sun is blazing down and far, far up above I can see people.
The last stretch actually drags on a bit. People coming down claim it's only 5 minutes. But they're all from the "pro" hiker category... By now I've understood why hikers use those walking poles I've always laughed at...
The real pros even go one step further with snow chain shoes. No joke — and apparently everyone knew how useful such equipment can be. Everyone but me.
I'm incredibly looking forward to a little greasy mountain hut meal. Or a big greasy mountain hut meal. And a delicious raspberry spritzer with it — which in southern Germany is also called "Skiwasser." My tongue has been stuck to the roof of my mouth for a while now...
Beautiful, right? Fantastic views! Really worth seeing! I didn't try to photograph the fantastic panorama for you. It wouldn't have turned out as beautiful as it is in reality. I can only recommend doing this hike (not in winter...) and seeing for yourself!
I'm Hungry!
After looking around, I reveal myself to the other hikers with a hearty "Moinsen" as an out-of-towner amateur. Which is of course already obvious to them from my outfit. And I ask what they'd recommend as a specialty of the local gastronomy. The answer: "Whatever you brought with you"... The Aueralm is still closed...
We Love Rules
It's easy for me to comply with this prohibition. Apart from my now-empty water bottle, I have nothing with me. So I continue enjoying the view. But due to my late departure, restlessness grips me, as I'd rather not slide down icy paths.
I ask the "pros" about the best way down and trudge off again. What I'd asked for was a mostly snow- or ice-free path. They quickly took that illusion from me. So I chose the shortest route.
In Survival Mode
My phone battery was draining relentlessly. The shadows grew longer and it was getting noticeably colder. I texted the best wife of all which path I'd taken and asked her, should she not hear from me in 2-3 hours, to send one or more mountain rescue teams with a few avalanche dogs.
The descent actually turned out to be really easy. My pulse no longer permanently in the red zone. Occasionally I still sank in at the edge of the path. But that quickly improved — the path was indeed really steep. But ice-free.
Arriving at the parking lot, I'm unbelievably happy about the water bottle in the car. I struggle out of my trusty summer hiking boots and catch my breath. I'd been out for nearly four hours. Without snow, it would certainly go much faster. But it was really beautiful all the same!
Maybe Not Such a Bad Thing After All...
And considering the nearly full parking lot here even now in winter, the season might not be so bad for a trip to Tegernsee after all. It's probably packed in summer. And had I been better equipped, the trail wouldn't have been much of a challenge either. What I'd recommend based on today's lessons: walking poles, water, and perhaps those snow chains for your shoes...
I've mapped out my route to the Aueralm at Tegernsee on Komoot. I find it easier to follow than the written description.
If you enjoyed this "walk" at Tegernsee, feel free to leave a comment below. If you don't want to miss anything, subscribe to the newsletter. Or follow me on Instagram or LinkedIn!
Arnd